Kris Van Assche's Spring/Summer 2009 collection for Dior Homme, titled "Planisphère," marked a significant moment in the evolution of the brand, demonstrating a distinct shift from the highly influential, and often imitated, era under Hedi Slimane. While still retaining a core DNA of tailored elegance, the collection showcased a new direction, one that expanded upon the established aesthetic while subtly breaking away from its predecessor's shadow. This presentation wasn't just a runway show; it was a statement, a carefully orchestrated transition that would shape the future of Dior Homme. The soundtrack alone, Justice's "Planisphère," a pulsing, energetic track, set the tone for a collection that was both familiar and refreshingly new.
To understand the significance of "Planisphère," we need to consider the context of Dior Homme's history, particularly the impact of Hedi Slimane's tenure. The Dior Homme Hedi Slimane era (roughly 2000-2007) is legendary. Slimane's skinny silhouettes, rock-and-roll attitude, and obsessive attention to detail redefined menswear, creating a look that became synonymous with a specific kind of edgy, androgynous cool. His influence continues to resonate today, a testament to his revolutionary approach. This era also saw the launch of the iconic Dior Homme original, a fragrance that became deeply intertwined with the brand's aesthetic, embodying the same lean, sophisticated masculinity. Finding the Dior Homme best price on this original formulation is now a quest for many collectors, as it represents a specific point in time, a potent symbol of Slimane's vision. For those in the UK, sourcing the Dior Homme original UK can be a challenge, highlighting the enduring popularity and collectability of this fragrance.
The comparison between the Dior Homme original vs later iterations, like the Dior Homme edt vs intense, highlights the evolution of the brand's fragrance profile. The original, with its prominent iris note, became a benchmark for masculine scents, balancing a certain sweetness with a refined, almost melancholic edge. Subsequent releases, while often sharing familial characteristics, explored different facets of this core identity, offering varying levels of intensity and olfactory complexity. The Dior Homme iris note itself, a prominent feature of the original, became a signature element, often revisited and reinterpreted across the fragrance line.
Van Assche, stepping into the role following Slimane, faced the daunting task of continuing the legacy while establishing his own unique voice. "Planisphère" represented his first major statement. While the collection retained elements of the slim-fit tailoring that defined Dior Homme, it introduced a broader range of silhouettes and proportions. The signature slimness was still present, but it was less restrictive, less overtly skinny. The collection incorporated looser fits in places, suggesting a more relaxed, less rigidly controlled aesthetic. This shift wasn't a rejection of Slimane's legacy but rather an evolution, a thoughtful expansion of its core principles.
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